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Citadella (Citadel) is located at the east end of the old section of Buda, above the Hotel Gellert with the beautiful baths and pools. I had the fortune (or misfortune) to be there on a holiday --half of the city's population was at the baths.
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Budapest is the result of the combining of Buda (west side of the Danube) and Pest on the east. Buda is the older, more picturesque section, Pest contains the more modern shopping and commercial districts.
In a manner that seems analogous to the relationship of Paris to France, Budapest appears to be the heart of Hungary. All roads pass through Budapest. The national gallery has a splendid collection of late 19th and early 20th century art (my favorite period): Gyula Derkovits, Károly Ferenczy, and Janos Vaszary – "Scene of War" and "Golgotha."
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| A tower of the Fisherman's Bastion in Buda -- behind the Hilton Hotel which managed to take in part of an old convent in Buda. |
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It was strange to spend the morning walking through the beautiful old buildings of Buda and then to arrive at Moszkva Square, an aptly-named (if for Moscow) expanse of concrete that serves as a major transit point for busses and the subway. I did not sketch it because it was an ugly space.
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Small basket decoration on dining table.
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Budapest is a city of gracious living -- white tablecloths, heavy table service, formal waiters, violinists accompanying dinner. |
Szénavmentes = without gas
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It is also a city of spires - lots of them. |
St. Mathias
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| The residents devised a brilliant plan for dealing with the Soviet statuary after the regime change. They trucked it out to an architect-designed park in the suburbs, and turned it into a tourist attraction. |
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One exception is the bronze woman with the palm frond that stands near the Citadella on a peak above the city. She had become so strongly identified with the city as she is seen from most everywhere and appears on postcards, that she was spared the trip to Szoborpark (Statue Park). The statue was ordered and planned by the last governor of Hungary before and during WWII, Horthy Miklos, whose pilot son crashed (non-military action). The woman then held a propeller. |
| Seven of us, plus Milos, the driver, and Ivona, our guide left Budapest in a white VW van, and headed for the countryside. |
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After a picnic, we hiked to Eger. It was VERY hot. We lucked into a cherry tree that was so big that only our legs showed as we gobbled fruit. |
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Eger is the site of the most northern Turkish minaret -- a reminder of Ottoman times.
The next day we drove to Tokaj, another charming town, centered in the famous wine region. 
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The grape varietal is the Tokajii Aszú. It comes in a range of puttonyos, from 3 to 6 (best), depending on the botrytis level. We tasted levels 3 and 6 in one of the many wine cellars.
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There are flowers everywhere -- on light posts and balconys.
After checking out storks, we hiked through the upper Hungarian countryside, joined our van, and crossed the border into Slovakia, spending the night in Levonca.
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| Spisske Podhradie "Slovak Paradise" was the site of an extraordinary hike along limestone cliffs and the Hornad River. Some parts required stepping along a series of iron grates fixed into the cliffs above the rushing water. |
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The trails were very well-marked, giving length of time rather than distance to various destinations.
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There were many caves carved by the rushing water along the river.
On our drive back we passed through a gypsy village. It was astounding to see the children running to us for treats, and then young men came, aggressively requesting cigarettes.
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| Levonca is a medieval town with a lovely square and city hall. |
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A quintessential castle, Spissky Hrad, was built in the 13th century, and is seen for miles in all directions.
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| We visited a 13th century church in Zehra which contained rare frescoes and is a UNESCO world heritage site. The graves nearby had gardens planted on them. We saw this in other cemeteries -- well-tended graves with lots of fresh flowers. |
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| We crossed to border from Slovakia to Poland -- the woman guard looked like someone direct from central casting sent for serious interrogation. |
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It was cold and drizzling, so we rode up to a hut in a wagon drawn by two beautiful horses, with a driver dressed in traditional garb -- heavily-embroidered felt pants, colorful shirt and hat. |
From the hut, there was a path around the lake -- Morske Oko (Eye of the Sea). 
At the far end was a second very steep path (one of many, to come) to another lake with patches of snow.
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These are the Polish Tatras. In the afternoon we visited Zakopane, a major Polish tourist center.
We returned to the Hotel Polana in Javorina, Slovakia. It had been a vacation spot for Communist officials. It has a very Soviet look. The view is spectacular and the rooms comfortable. The placing of the abstract concrete sculpture shown below (about 20 feet high) in front of the magnificent Tatras speaks for itself.
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We rode a tram up the mountain and hiked to the Zamkovskeno Chata, and on up the mountain. Just as we began our descent back to the hut, it started to rain.
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By the time we got back to the Chata (hut), it was filled with hikers sitting out the rain. We were soaked, and went on down to the tram station where we saved body and soul with hot food and beer.
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My favorite hike was over the Kopske Sedlo Pass which divides the White Tatras from the High Tatras. The views and the wildflower displays were wonderful.
Trail marker.
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No collecting of insects-- Prizna Rezervacia Zakz Zberu Les Nych Plodin
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The Grand Hotel Praha (Prague) in Tratranska Lomnica was so named when Czechoslovia was created. |
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We hiked in the section of the park near Strbske Pleso. Pleso = lake, but is specific to lakes in the Tatras.
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| Clamboring up a path of rocks and roots led to the Symbolic Cemetery. 
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Bronze plaques were fixed to granite boulders. Each plaque in memory of someone who had died in the mountains -- skiing or rock-climbing accidents, avalanches, etc. Sadly, most were in their late teens or early twenties.
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Early on, we discovered the pleasure of Slovakian beer. Golden Pheasant, dark, was a favorite.
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We were now hiking in the West Tatras to a series of lakes, each higher than the other. This one was two tarns up from Rohácske Plesá.
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Entrance canopy and lantern at
Sipox Castle Motel in Horna Lohota
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Velky Rozsutec (mountain) in Mala Faltra National Park.
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Orava Castle was another beauty of 3 levels perched high above the Orava River. Above is an entryway from the courtyard, and on the right, one of the main towers. Towers in this part of the world have wood shingles.
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The doors were of very heavy wood with massive metal hardware fixtures. |
