Barbara and Isolda in the Nordeste, August 2002

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Olinda is said to have received its name from an early visitor's having uttered "O linda!"

It is a beautiful place, especially the section where we stayed in the Pousada do Amparo. Narrow cobblestone streets wind by ubiquitous ornate Portuguese baroque churches and abut colorful plaster houses with extensive tile ornamentation and iron grillwork.

The town sits on an extensive curving bay. Recife, with its modern highrise buildings, is in the distance.

Despite the many murals, monuments, and paintings celebrating their defeat by the Portuguese, the Dutch influence with regard to art, architecture, and attitude seems to have exceeded their 24-year stay.
A young guide,Wellington, showed us the sights, and then we settled in for some sketching on an overlook next to an ice cream vendor. We were the afternoon's entertainment for four girls who chatted and hovered over us as we sketched.

After a great lunch at the Oficina do Sabor, there was a mini-carnival parade; Isolda's comment "That is what keeps Brasil alive -- people know how to get together and have a good time."
from our balcony

Isolda's view of Olinda

The Pousada was constructed by removing the dividing wall between two adjacent houses. It was filled with art objects and floral displays. The dining terrace looked out over the patio and swimming pool and onto a large banana tree.
After visiting the Museo do Mamalengos (puppets), Isolda's childhood friend, Cristina Freyre picked us up in her SUV and took us to their home in Apipucos.
We lunched with the family, saw the Fundação Gilberto Freyre and the Museo F. Joaquim Nabuco do Homiem Nordeste, and after an appropriate stop for tea at the Praça do Forte, visited Cristina's mother in her highrise apartment overlooking the river in Recife. No time for sketching.
Barbara bought a Vilanova painting (example on left), Isolda, a primitive, and there was something about shoes for the brother (private joke).

Next day we were off to Bonito.

I have never seen so much sugar cane and so many sugar mills as in the Nordeste.

Aguardente de Cana flowed from the mouth of the bull's head on the wall in the Fazenda office.

View from our room.

One of many Acacia trees.

Barbara finds true love, but tears herself away for a trip to the falls.

Sandra Santiago was a great guide for the "small green river." Her father lives there with a donkey, dogs, cat, and chickens.

We also visited a floral farm -- mostly chrysanthemums.

The candy stand at the Bonito bus stop was well-stocked.

Isolda by the pool at the Novotel

We spent a day on the beach at Praia Piedad, near Recife, and then parted at the airport. It was a long trip home.

BAS 10/15/02